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Since they are so easy to install – and also quite affordable – laminates are a great choice for any room in the house. You can find laminate that looks like wood or stone, Tile Flooring Near Me in Douglasdale and it may even have a special texture, making it hard to distinguish from the real thing. Installing laminate flooring is a simple, straightforward process. Laminate floors are sometimes called ‘floating floors’ because they are not directly fastened (glued or nailed) to the sub-floor. Instead, the pieces of laminate flooring are connected to each other and ‘float’ above the sub-floor.

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The floating allows the flooring to expand or contract with temperature or other environmental changes so it settles well into the room.The installation process for Tile Suppliers Near Me is so easy anyone can do it, saving you time and money. The pieces of laminate flooring use connectors or interlocking systems that allow you to easily click the pieces together. Depending on the laminate you use, you may use one of three types of installation procedures – glue, glue-less, or pre-glued. The procedure used, along with the quality of the flooring, will influence the lifespan and performance of your laminate flooring.Preparing for Installation Before you install your laminate flooring, follow these steps to make sure that your installation will be successful.

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First, remove all furniture, appliances, and breakables from the room where you’ll do the installation. You want your work area to be clean and uncluttered.Second, remove existing flooring as needed. Laminate can be placed atop almost any flooring type except carpet. However, for a cleaner installation you may want to remove other flooring types (linoleum, wood, etc.). Along with this, check if you’ll ultimately be changing the height of your flooring. If so, you’ll want to adjust your doors accordingly so they still open and close easily.

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Prior to installation, you should give the laminate a bit of time to adjust to your home’s conditions. Leave the boxes of flooring lying flat in the room(s) where they will be installed for 48 hours before installation so the flooring can adapt to the climate of your home or building.Finally, you may need to lay a piece of foam, polyurethane, or a similar product down and install the laminate on top of it. Doing this will help to cushion the floor, absorb sound, and prevent moisture from wicking up and destroying the laminate. Check with your floor’s manufacturer to see if this is necessary. How to Install Laminate Flooring Although you can hire someone to install laminate flooring for you, you can save hundreds of dollars – or more- by installing it yourself.

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Whatever method of installation you choose, it is important to remember that your ‘floating floor’ needs a bit of room to expand and contract. Make sure you leave small gaps against the walls. Don’t worry – the gaps will be covered by your baseboard and you won’t even know they are there.Using the Glue-Less ProcedureGlue-less laminate flooring is perhaps the most popular and easiest type for installation. The pieces of flooring are designed with a special tongue-and-groove system that allows the pieces to easily connect. All you have to do is take two pieces and snap or click them together and repeat as needed. This method is really easy to learn and apply and saves you the mess of gluing pieces together.

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The one downside is that glue-less laminate flooring may cost a bit more than other types. Using the Glue Procedure  is quite similar to the glue-less procedure. However, Buy Ceramic Tiles Online as the name implies, the pieces of laminate flooring are glued together rather than simply being snapped into place. You may also need to use special fillers or sealants, as well as wedges and tapping blocks to get the right spacing and fill in any gaps. The pieces may stick together better this way, but this method can be a bit messy. Using the Pre-Glued ProcedurePre-glued laminate flooring is a sort of hybrid of the other installation techniques.

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The pieces are glued together, but the glue is already on the pieces.You simply activate the glue with a little water (by, e.g., running a damp sponge along the glued edges). This method is a little less messy than the glue method, but may require the same special tools.Once you’ve installed your flooring, it’s best if you can stay off it for about 24 hours. If possible, don’t bring your furniture or appliances back in immediately, and minimize walking on the floor until the flooring has had time to dry off and settle into place. This will ultimately prolong the life of your floor, guaranteeing you years of enjoyment.Laminate floors are not only easy to install, but they are a great investment. They can raise the value of your home, and are sure to give you years of enjoyment.

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A suction-cup tile lifter has been used to remove a tile. A raised floor (also raised flooring, access floor(ing), or raised access computer floor) provides an elevated structural floor above a solid substrate (often a concrete slab) to create a hidden void for the passage of mechanical and electrical services. Raised floors are widely used in modern office buildings, and in specialized areas such as command centers, IT data centers and computer rooms, where there is a requirement to route mechanical services and cables, wiring, and electrical supply. Such flooring can be installed at varying heights from 2 inches (51 mm) to heights above 4 feet (1,200 mm) to suit services that may be accommodated beneath. Additional structural support and lighting are often provided when a floor is raised enough for a person to crawl or even walk beneath. In the U.S., underfloor air distribution is becoming a more common way to cool a building by using the void below the raised floor as a plenum chamber to distribute conditioned air, which has been done in Europe since the 1970s.[1] In data centers, isolated air-conditioning zones are often associated with raised floors. Perforated tiles are traditionally placed beneath computer systems to direct conditioned air directly to them. In turn, the computing equipment is often designed to draw cooling air from below and exhaust into the room. An air conditioning unit then draws air from the room, cools it, and forces it beneath the raised floor, completing the cycle. This type of floor consists of a gridded metal framework or substructure of adjustable-height supports (called "pedestals") that provide support for removable (liftable) floor panels, which are usually 2×2 feet or 60×60 cm. The height of the legs/pedestals is dictated by the volume of cables and other services provided beneath, but typically arranged for a clearance of at least six inches or 15 cm with typical heights between 24 inches to 48 inches.[citation needed] The panels are normally made of steel-clad particleboard or a steel panel with a cementitious internal core, although some tiles have hollow cores. Panels may be covered with a variety of flooring finishes to suit the application, such as carpet tiles, high-pressure laminates, marble, stone, and antistatic finishes for use in computer rooms and laboratories. When using a panel with a cement top surface the panels are sometimes left bare and sealed or stained and sealed to create a tile appearance and save the customer money. This bare application is used most often in office area, hallways, lobbies, museums, casinos, etc. Many modern computer and equipment rooms employ an underfloor air distribution to ensure even cooling of the room with minimal wasted energy. Conditioned air is provided under the floor and dispersed upward into the room through regularly spaced diffuser tiles, blowers or through ducts directed into specific equipment. Automatic fire protection shutoffs may be required for underfloor ventilation, and additional suppression systems may be installed in case of underfloor fires. Server cabinet aisle on raised floor with cooling panels Many office buildings now use access flooring to create more flexible and sustainable spaces. When underfloor air is designed into a building from the start of the project, the building can be less expensive to build and less expensive to operate over the life of the building. Underfloor air requires less space per floor, thereby reducing the overall height of the building, which in turn reduces the cost of the building facade. The blowers and air handlers required for underfloor air are much smaller and require less energy, since hot air rises naturally through the space as it comes in contact with people and equipment that warm the air and it rises to the ceiling. Additionally, when buildings are designed to combine modular electrical, modular walls, and access floor, the space within the building can be reconfigured in a few hours, as compared to historical means of demolishing walls and drilling holes in the floor to route electrical and other services. As more companies construct or renovate buildings to meet LEED (Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design) underfloor air and access floor usage will continue to grow. The USGBC (United States Green Building Council) states that 40-48% of new nonresidential construction is green.[2] Because the flooring tiles are rarely removed once equipment has been installed, the space below them is seldom cleaned, and fluff and other debris settles, making working on cabling underneath the flooring a dirty job. Smoke detectors under the raised floor can be triggered by workers disturbing the dust, resulting in false alarms. One-cup suction lifter To remove panels, a tool with a suction cup on the end (referred to as a "floor puller", "tile lifter", or "suction lifter") is used. A hook-and-loop lifter may be used on carpeted panels. Beneath a raised floor Structural problems, such as rocking panels and gaps between panels, can cause significant damage to equipment and injury to personnel. Regular inspections for the structural integrity of a raised floor system can help to identify and mitigate problems. Equipment and floor damage can happen when using flooring that does not meet load demands. Load ratings range from 1,000 pounds to 25,000 pounds. Higher panels can be used on heavier areas of a floor where as lower panels can be used on lighter areas. Many such problems can be attributed to sub-par installation. During installation, attention should be paid to the condition of the subfloor, which should be clean of debris and should be as level as possible. The walls surrounding the raised floor should be as square as possible to minimize the need for cutting raised floor panels and to minimize rocking panels and gaps.[citation needed] Perforated cooling floor tile The installation of a raised floor system can change the thermal behavior of the building by reducing the interaction between the heat gains and the thermally massive concrete slab.[3] The raised floor serves as a separation between the room and the slab. Energy simulations of an office building located in San Francisco showed that the mere presence of the raised floor affects the zone cooling load profile and tends to increase the peak cooling load. When carpeting is present the negative impact of the raised floor on zone peak cooling load may be reduced.[3] Raised floors available for general purpose use typically do not address the special requirements needed for telecommunications applications.[4] The general types of raised floors in telecommunications data centers include: stringerless, stringered, and structural platforms; and, truss assemblies. A telecommunications facility may contain continuous lineups of equipment cabinets. The most densely populated installation configuration would consist of rows of continuous 2-foot-wide equipment cabinets with aisles that separate 2-foot-wide adjacent rows. This lineup configuration is considered to be the most densely populated in terms of square foot area and, therefore, the largest floor load anticipated for a raised floor system. Considering prorated aisle space, a single equipment cabinet will then occupy an 8-square foot (0.74-m2) floor area (4 square feet for the cabinet and 4 square feet of aisle). The data center can be located in remote locations, and is subject to physical and electrical stresses from sources such as fires and from electrical faults. The environment drives the installation methods for raised floors, including site preparation, cable and cable racking, bonding and grounding, and fire resistance. The actual installation should be in accordance with the customer’s practices.[5][6]

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We have had a couple of requests for information about installing carpet on your boat. First let me give the advice that installation of marine carpet should be installed by a professional installer. Also, this guide is for glue down boat carpet only; snap in carpet mats can only be done by a professional with the proper tools. Now that we have that out of the way... Here is a list of tools needed.carpet knife Needle nose pliers marine glue 1/16 trowel tape measure marker scraper shop vac scissors Start in a corner by grabbing the carpet with the pliers. Gently pull back slowly, as to not tear through the carpet. Once the old carpeting is completely pulled out; set it aside for later. Use the scraper to remove the remaining dry carpet glue from your boat. If it isn't working, try using a piece of sandpaper. But don't overboard and ruin the bottom of your boat.Now grab your new carpet and roll it out. If it is stiff and curling, leave it in the sun for a little bit to soften up. Now flip the carpet over so the backing is upright. Place your old carpet over the top of it with the backing facing up as well. Use the marker and trace out the old carpet on top of the new carpet. Once that is done, use either a knife or scissors to cut your carpeting out. For those who do not have existing carpet, you will have to lay the carpet inside your boat and cut the carpet to your fitting. It is not difficult but can be time consuming.Now set your new marine carpeting inside your boat. Adjust it to fit exactly as it should when it is glued down. Set down something heavy like a toolbox or a case of beer on one side of the boat. Now flip the other side over. Start spreading the glue onto the boat using the 1/16 trowel. Do not use to much glue or else the carpet will bubble feel much different under your foot. Once the entire side has been glued; gently set the carpet over the top. If you have the ability to rent or borrow a 100 pound roller; use it to go over the glued carpet. This will prevent air bubbles and ripples. Now repeat on the other side and your all done. Enjoy your new carpet.

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