Since they are so easy to install – and also quite affordable – laminates are a great choice for any room in the house. You can find laminate that looks like wood or stone, Ceramic Floor Tiles For Sale in Morningside and it may even have a special texture, making it hard to distinguish from the real thing. Installing laminate flooring is a simple, straightforward process. Laminate floors are sometimes called ‘floating floors’ because they are not directly fastened (glued or nailed) to the sub-floor. Instead, the pieces of laminate flooring are connected to each other and ‘float’ above the sub-floor.
The floating allows the flooring to expand or contract with temperature or other environmental changes so it settles well into the room.The installation process for Buy Ceramic Tiles is so easy anyone can do it, saving you time and money. The pieces of laminate flooring use connectors or interlocking systems that allow you to easily click the pieces together. Depending on the laminate you use, you may use one of three types of installation procedures – glue, glue-less, or pre-glued. The procedure used, along with the quality of the flooring, will influence the lifespan and performance of your laminate flooring.Preparing for Installation Before you install your laminate flooring, follow these steps to make sure that your installation will be successful.
First, remove all furniture, appliances, and breakables from the room where you’ll do the installation. You want your work area to be clean and uncluttered.Second, remove existing flooring as needed. Laminate can be placed atop almost any flooring type except carpet. However, for a cleaner installation you may want to remove other flooring types (linoleum, wood, etc.). Along with this, check if you’ll ultimately be changing the height of your flooring. If so, you’ll want to adjust your doors accordingly so they still open and close easily.
Protect Your Carpeting From Dents
Prior to installation, you should give the laminate a bit of time to adjust to your home’s conditions. Leave the boxes of flooring lying flat in the room(s) where they will be installed for 48 hours before installation so the flooring can adapt to the climate of your home or building.Finally, you may need to lay a piece of foam, polyurethane, or a similar product down and install the laminate on top of it. Doing this will help to cushion the floor, absorb sound, and prevent moisture from wicking up and destroying the laminate. Check with your floor’s manufacturer to see if this is necessary. How to Install Laminate Flooring Although you can hire someone to install laminate flooring for you, you can save hundreds of dollars – or more- by installing it yourself.
Whatever method of installation you choose, it is important to remember that your ‘floating floor’ needs a bit of room to expand and contract. Make sure you leave small gaps against the walls. Don’t worry – the gaps will be covered by your baseboard and you won’t even know they are there.Using the Glue-Less ProcedureGlue-less laminate flooring is perhaps the most popular and easiest type for installation. The pieces of flooring are designed with a special tongue-and-groove system that allows the pieces to easily connect. All you have to do is take two pieces and snap or click them together and repeat as needed. This method is really easy to learn and apply and saves you the mess of gluing pieces together.
The one downside is that glue-less laminate flooring may cost a bit more than other types. Using the Glue Procedure is quite similar to the glue-less procedure. However, Discount Tile Flooring Near Me as the name implies, the pieces of laminate flooring are glued together rather than simply being snapped into place. You may also need to use special fillers or sealants, as well as wedges and tapping blocks to get the right spacing and fill in any gaps. The pieces may stick together better this way, but this method can be a bit messy. Using the Pre-Glued ProcedurePre-glued laminate flooring is a sort of hybrid of the other installation techniques.
The pieces are glued together, but the glue is already on the pieces.You simply activate the glue with a little water (by, e.g., running a damp sponge along the glued edges). This method is a little less messy than the glue method, but may require the same special tools.Once you’ve installed your flooring, it’s best if you can stay off it for about 24 hours. If possible, don’t bring your furniture or appliances back in immediately, and minimize walking on the floor until the flooring has had time to dry off and settle into place. This will ultimately prolong the life of your floor, guaranteeing you years of enjoyment.Laminate floors are not only easy to install, but they are a great investment. They can raise the value of your home, and are sure to give you years of enjoyment.
Ceramic Floor Tiles For Sale in Morningside ?
An example of solid wood flooring with a top coating of polyurethane Wood flooring is any product manufactured from timber that is designed for use as flooring, either structural or aesthetic. Wood is a common choice as a flooring material and can come in various styles, colors, cuts, and species. Bamboo flooring is often considered a form of wood flooring, although it is made from a grass (bamboo) rather than a timber. Solid hardwood floors are made of planks milled from a single piece of timber. Solid hardwood floors were originally used for structural purposes, being installed perpendicular to the wooden support beams of a building known as joists or bearers. With the increased use of concrete as a subfloor in some parts of the world, engineered wood flooring has gained some popularity. However, solid wood floors are still common and popular. Solid wood floors have a thicker wear surface and can be sanded and finished more times than an engineered wood floor. It is not uncommon for homes in New England, Eastern Canada, and Europe which are several hundred years old to have the original solid wood floor still in use today. Custom showroom Solid wood flooring is milled from a single piece of timber that is kiln or air dried before sawing. Depending on the desired look of the floor, the timber can be cut in three ways: flat-sawn, quarter-sawn, and rift-sawn. The timber is cut to the desired dimensions and either packed unfinished for a site-finished installation or finished at the factory. The moisture content at time of manufacturing is carefully controlled to ensure the product does not warp during transport and storage. A number of proprietary features for solid wood floors are available. Many solid woods come with grooves cut into the back of the wood that run the length of each plank, often called 'absorption strips,' that are intended to reduce cupping. Solid wood floors are mostly manufactured .75 inches (19 mm) thick with a tongue-and-groove for installation. Oak herringbone parquet floor with two-strip wenge border Rotary-peel This process involves treating the wood by boiling the log in water. After preparation, the wood is peeled by a blade starting from the outside of the log and working toward the center, thus creating a wood veneer. The veneer is then pressed flat with high pressure. This style of manufacturing tends to have problems with the wood cupping or curling back to its original shape. Rotary-peeled engineered hardwoods tend to have a plywood appearance in the grain. Sliced-peel This process begins with the same treatment process that the rotary peel method uses. However, instead of being sliced in a rotary fashion, with this technique the wood is sliced from the log in much the same manner that lumber is sawn from a log – straight through. The veneers do not go through the same manufacturing process as rotary peeled veneers. Engineered hardwood produced this way tends to have fewer problems with "face checking", and also does not have the same plywood appearance in the grain. However, the planks can tend to have edge splintering and cracking because the veneers have been submerged in water and then pressed flat. Dry solid-sawn Instead of boiling the hardwood logs, in this process they are kept at a low humidity level and dried slowly to draw moisture from the inside of the wood cells. The logs are then sawed in the same manner as for solid hardwood planks. This style of engineered hardwood has the same look as solid hardwood, and does not have any of the potential problems of "face checking" that rotary-peel and slice-peel products have, because the product is not exposed to added moisture. Wood flooring is a popular feature in many houses. Engineered wood flooring is composed of two or more layers of wood in the form of a plank. The top layer (lamella) is the wood that is visible when the flooring is installed and is adhered to the core. The increased stability of engineered wood is achieved by running each layer at a 90° angle to the layer above. This stability makes it a universal product that can be installed over all types of subfloors above, below or on grade. Engineered wood is the most common type of wood flooring used globally. The several different categories of engineered wood flooring include: All timber wood floors are made from sawn wood and are the most common category of engineered wood flooring. They do not use rotary-peeled veneer, composite wood (such as HDF), or plastic in their construction. Veneer floors use a thin layer of wood over a core that is commonly a composite wood product. Acrylic-impregnated wood flooring uses a layer of wood that is impregnated with liquid acrylic then hardened using a proprietary process. Laminate and vinyl floors are often confused with engineered wood floors, but are not; laminate uses an image of wood on its surface, while vinyl flooring is plastic formed to look like wood. It is difficult to compare solid wood flooring to engineered wood flooring due to the wide range of quality in both product categories, particularly engineered. Solid wood has some limitations. Recommended maximum widths and lengths are typically 5" / 127mm wide and 7' / 2100mm long. Solid hardwood is also more prone to "gapping" (excessive space between planks), "crowning" (convex curving upwards when humidity increases) and "cupping" (a concave or "dished" appearance of the plank, with the height of the plank along its longer edges being higher than the centre) with increased plank size. Solid wood CANNOT be used with underfloor radiant heating. However extra care is necessary with the planning and installation of the heating system and the wood flooring, such as limiting the temperature to 85 °F (29 °C), avoid sharp temperature fluctuations, utilizing an outdoor thermostat to anticipate heating demands, and monitoring the moisture content for the subfloor before installation. There are some characteristics that are common to each category: solid wood is more frequently site-finished, is always in a plank format, is generally thicker than engineered wood, and is usually installed by nailing. Engineered wood is more frequently pre-finished, has bevelled edges, is very rarely site-finished, and is installed with glue or as a floating installation. Engineered wood flooring has other benefits beyond dimensional stability and universal use. Patented installation systems allow for faster installation and easy replacement of boards. Engineered wood also allows for a floating installation where the planks are not adhered to the subfloor or to each other, further increasing ease of repair and reducing installation time. Engineered flooring is also suitable for underfloor and radiant heating systems. Wood can be manufactured with a variety of different installation systems: Tongue-and-groove: One side and one end of the plank have a groove, the other side and end have a tongue (protruding wood along an edge's center). The tongue and groove fit snugly together, thus joining or aligning the planks, and are not visible once joined. Tongue-and-groove flooring can be installed by glue-down (both engineered and solid), floating (mostly engineered only), or nail-down (not recommended for most engineered). "Click" or Woodloc systems: there are a number of patented "click" systems that now exist. These click systems are either "unilin" or "fiboloc" A "click" floor is similar to tongue-and-groove, but instead of fitting directly into the groove, the board must be angled or "tapped" in to make the curved or barbed tongue fit into the modified groove. No adhesive is used when installing a "click" floor, making board replacement easier. This system not only exists for engineered wood floors but also engineered bamboo and a small number of solid floors (such as "parador solido click") and is designed to be used for floating installations. It is beneficial for the Do-It-Yourself market. Floor connection system: There are a wide range of connection systems, as most of them are mill-specific manufacturing techniques. The general principle is to have grooves on all four sides of the plank with a separate, unconnected, piece that is inserted into the grooves of two planks to join them. The piece used for the connection can be made from wood, rubber, or plastic. This installation system allows for different materials (i.e. wood and metal) to be installed together if they have the same connection system. Wood flooring can also be installed utilizing the glue-down method. This is an especially popular method for solid parquet flooring installations on concrete sub-floors. Additionally, engineered wood flooring may use the glue-down method as well. A layer of mastic is placed onto the sub-floor using a trowel similar to those used in laying ceramic tile. The wood pieces are then laid on top of the glue and hammered into place using a rubber mallet and a protected 2x4 to create a level floor. Often the parquet floor will require sanding and re-finishing after the glue-down installation method due to the small size pieces. Floating installation: A floating installation is where the flooring is laid down in a glueless manner on top of a layer of underlay. The individual planks are locked together, and are not glued or nailed down to the subfloor. By doing this the floor is floating above the underlay, and can be laid on top of existing tile or marble, without the risk of damaging the subflooring. The two most popular modern finishes for wood flooring are oil-modified urethane and water-based polyurethane. Within both categories there are many variations and other names used to describe the finish. Oil-modified urethane and water-based polyurethane also have very different refinishing and maintenance regimes. Natural shellacs, lacquers, and varnishes were used in the past, as were waxes, often blended with oils. Oil - Oiled floors have existed for several thousand years and is the most common floor finish used globally. Oil finished floors are made from naturally derived drying oils, and are not to be confused with petroleum based oils. Pre-finished oil floors can be UV cured. Most vegetable based oils are 100% natural and contain no VOCs. Brushed and oiled - Steel brushes are used in the direction of the grain which opens up the surface of the wood and removes splinters. The wood is then oiled. Polyurethane - Polyurethane floor finishes were first introduced around 1942. There are several types of polyurethane finishes that exist, but the two most common are oil-modified polyurethane and water-based polyurethane. Water-based urethane is harder than oil-modified polyurethane and is much safer for the user. Generally, hardwood floors need to be buffed every 3–5 years. The process usually takes about one day. Buffing refers to the process of using a stand up floor buffer. The floor is abraded with 180 grit screen on the buffer. This allows for the new coat of finish to mechanically adhere to the floor. This process works with great results as long as the floor hasn't had any waxes or synthetic cleaners. Sanding the finish off old wood floors and smoothing them out. Main article: Floor sanding Sanding provides a method for smoothing an installed floor, compensating for unevenness of the subfloor. Additionally, sanding is used to renew the appearance of older floors. Sanding using successively finer grades of sandpaper is required to ensure even stain penetration when stains are used, as well as to eliminate visible scratches from coarser sandpaper grades used initially. Prior to modern polyurethanes, oils and waxes were used in addition to stains to provide finishes. Beeswax and linseed oil, for example, are both natural crosslinking polymers and harden over time.
Wood Flooring or Laminate Wood Flooring - This Is the Question
If you are one who enjoys a rich tradition, then there is perhaps nothing better than some solid wood flooring in a den or cozy study room. Although many flooring surfaces have changed over the year's wood flooring is still one of the most popular choices you can make for improving the value in your home.The Best and Worst PlacesSome of the best places for wood flooring would be in your den or great room or even a small family room. Combine your flooring surface with a nice wood stove, and some other decorative home décor items and you'll find a look that is very desirable. Stay Away from the Kitchen and BathroomsSome of the worst places that you can put wood flooring would be in a kitchen, because you can easily drop heavy cans or other items such as sharp knives and such that can put gouges into a wood flooring surface that might make it difficult to repair easily.Another place that you might want to avoid thinking about this type of flooring service would be a bathroom. The moisture among other things associated with both the kitchen and the bathroom do not make wood flooring the best choice. There Is a Better OptionIf you are really counting on putting some sort of the wood flooring look in your kitchen or in your bathroom. You might look into the many selections of laminate flooring surfaces. Upon first glance, it is often hard to tell the difference between real wood flooring and laminate flooring, if done correctly.